It was an exacting enterprise. At a store in Manhattan, the drink–making employees, known as baristas, were told to dispense espresso into shot glasses instead of cups. They were urged to check the color of each shot. They were urged to pay more attention to the particularities of steaming milk. A handout labeled "Espresso Excellence" informed them that "without aeration, the milk screams and lacks sweetness." And: "The perfect milk requires surfing the tip of the steam wand until the sound is SSHHHH," reports Times writer Michael M. Grynbaum .

Howard D. Schultz , the company's recently reappointed chief executive, has spoken of regaining the "soul of the past" and improving the experience of Starbucks customers. Tuesday night's sessions were the latest indication of his focus on that task. Indeed, the sessions took place at a time when Starbucks is pining for better days.

The company is closing 100 American stores because of sluggish sales, and expansion plans have been scaled back. Starbucks, once a magic name on Wall Street, is increasingly seen there as just another big food chain.

"It's really inspiring to talk about the quality of our espresso when we're here all in the same room," Justin A. Chapple , manager of the Manhattan Starbucks, told his employees as members of the press viewed what was billed as a typical training session. "We want to be aware of how we are presenting our drinks to our customers."

The group, many of them earnest young employees who seemed dedicated to learning their lessons, watched a videotaped message from Schultz. The head and shoulders of the barista in chief filled the screen. "This is not about training," he said to his employees, looking somewhat somber. "This is about the love and compassion and commitment that we all need to have for the customer."

Then employees broke into groups to discuss new techniques to improve the taste and texture of drinks. Would–be customers were turned away at the door. In Manhattan, at least, a few were left in the rain.